Pad Thai. Green Curry. Tom yum. These are the things you tend to think about when someone mentions Thai food. But what if I were to say that there was more to Thai cuisine than stir fried noodles and coconut milk?

Thai Papaya is a restaurant that is near and dear to my heart as it is the only restaurant that has been able to replicate the mind blowing flavors of boat noodles (kuay teow reua) that I experienced during my trip in Thailand. A spin-off from its parent restaurant Sab-E-Lee, Thai Papaya focuses more on traditional classics, including a comprehensive offering of noodle soups.

Upon first glance, kuay teow reua bears a fleeting resemblance to Vietnamese pho, but take a closer look and you’ll find that it’s an entirely different animal.  At Thai Papaya, the base of the broth is a clear pork stock that has been enriched with an array of aromatics and spices, such as lemongrass, cilantro root, galangal, pandan leaf, cinnamon, clove, coriander seed, and star anise. However, the star of the show and what really elevates the broth to a whole new level is beef blood. Now before you freak out, let me explain; when done right, the blood gives the broth a unique richness and creamy mouthfeel that does not at all taste irony or feel grainy. Finish the broth with some chili vinegar and you have that coveted intense-yet-balanced Thai flavor profile that is salty, sweet, spicy, sour, and just a slight hint of bitter. Toppings include sliced beef, braised beef shank, pork balls, beef tripe, beef liver, fried pork cracklings, ong choi (water spinach), gai lan (Chinese broccoli), fried garlic, cilantro, white pepper, and scallion all atop thin rice noodles called sen lek. Like all restaurants in Thailand, a condiment caddy sits on the table. Use it to adjust your dish to your own personal tastes: a little bit of sugar for a sweeter broth, a few drops of fish sauce for extra umami and salt, some chili vinegar for a sour hit, and a sprinkle of toasted chili powder (prik bpon) for spiciness. I personally like some extra fish sauce, chili vinegar, and prik bpon myself. Put everything together in a bowl and you will find yourself with a surprisingly hearty meal on your hands all at an extremely reasonable price.

The first time I had boat noodles was at Victory Monument in Bangkok. It was a completely mind blowing experience that I knew I would need again in my life. Upon returning to the United States, I began my search for a restaurant that could match the noodles I had in Thailand. To my disappointment, every place I have tried since including the illustrious Sapp Coffee Shop in LA did not quite measure up with at least one of the elements of the broth lacking. Thai Papaya is able to deliver a balanced broth that is not too salty, sweet, sour, or bitter all the while dialing up the richness to eleven. A sticking point for most restaurants in trying to make boat noodle broth is the blood. Be it inaccessibility to fresh blood or poor technique, other restaurants’ broths tend to be grainy from coagulation or have a distinct irony taste. Thai Papaya is somehow able to avoid this problem as their broth is consistently amazing with a velvety mouthfeel.

After years of hunting and chasing, I am happy to say that I have finally found a restaurant that has given me that exact same flavor and feeling that I first experienced in Thailand. Thai Papaya is an excellent restaurant, well worth taking a trip to San Diego area just to experience truly incredible boat noodles.

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Thai Papaya
2405 Ulric St
San Diego, CA 92111